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*** Cooperation with Karlotta Pink ***
This project started with the aborigine print from Karlotta Pink. In the beginning I planned to sew the trenchcoat von Simple Sew – therefore the trenchcoat actually made it onto my #makenine2018 list. My plans change a lot, so that I actually sewed the jacket Lupin bx Deer&Doe. I could already imagine the outfit in my head: jeans, white blouse / shirt and the jacket in a bright pattern. At that time, I only had the fabric (this one), the pattern (already graded and traced) and a weekend reserved. Missing: The lining, the buttons and a plan to position the pattern of the print on the jacket as best as possible …
# Buying the Lining
I did not have the print on hand when I finally made it to the fabric shop. But since the Aboriginal print is made up of many different shades of color, it was not necessary to have an exact match. I wanted the lining to be in dark magenty, as an alternative forest green or powder pink – I prefer darker tones. It has become a really radiant magenta / aubergine colored Venetian lining. And most importantly, it fits perfectly. In addition, I bought 6 metal buttons. Actually, you only need two for the shoulder tabs. However, I wanted to make a small change in the armband (with a simple slit and button, so that the sleeve can also be rolled up) and possibly also at the hem band.
# Prewashing the fabric
From the first “I have to” to the actual execution, I have thought about three times about it. As if you could do so much wrong? The last call to my mom has confirmed: Warm water, knead, cold water, knead again. Why? The cold shock, so that the fibers contract, if they really want to. I spread out the fabrics on my clothes racks with towels underneath – I was not so good at wringing.
# The muslin
The sample was sewn in about half an hour from a great olive denim (which unfortunately has become extremely fuzzy due to the prewashing). As a tip to all: that is why it is essential to pre-wash fabrics. There is nothing more annoying than spending a lot of time and love in a piece of sewing and then … well.
Why actually a trial model? I was concerned about the shoulder width and the sleeve. Of course, everything else does matter as well, but is less relevant for this model. In my eyes, the sleeve on the shoulder was relatively far out and the arm ball was slightly too big on the back.
A fitting with my mom has shown that the sleeve actually sits far out. However, if you look at the technical drawing, it is a design feature. At the back, we actually took out some fabric. But instead of actually changing the pattern, my mom just made on the spot adjustments for me.
# OMG, print!!!
Aboriginal prints have a certain geometric repetition and therefore I have already dealt with pattern positioning in my head. That was also the big reason for my trip home – and the buttonholes because my machine does not want to sew them right now. It is easier to discuss positioning print on the garment in real life, then via Skype. After some back and forth, the striking red pattern has become the middle (front, back and sleeves).
Papa was quite astonished: “Yesterday she did not sew until 23:00” No, but on the next day. Variety brought a lunch at the Asian restaurant, a photo trip for another jacket that my boyfriend did not want to photograph and an evening visit to the village center to celebrate the successful Maypole setup.
The wekt pockets took the longest – because they where my first. The sample (directly on an original piece) has become perfect, the second one, of course, not quite so. When photographing, I was pretty amused about the pockets: You can use them, but it’s better to just look at them as “decoration”. They are small and not so easy to reach.
# There is not a lot left
Of course, the jacket was not finished in a weekend. It was still missing the topstitching and the cuffs. And all that with a very scarce thread bobbin. And it has become tight. I have actually expected to reacht the end with each stitch. But I was lucky, it even was enough to sew on the buttons, I have already thought about using red, as a small detail, so to speak.
Conclusion: The pattern is very well constructed, but the limited size selection is a bit of a turn off for me. I’m almost in the middle of the scale (especially at the waist, which is always at least one size larger for me). The seam allowance of 1.5 cm is a hindrance especially in the curved seams, and I would remove part of the 1.5 cm in another version before sewing. The manual is detailed, but not step by step. The fabric is “actually” more of a blouse fabric, but for the right jacket pattern, it can also be used wonderfully, as the example shows.
Sewing Pattern: Jacket Lupin by Deer&Doe
Fabric: Aborigine fabric “Bush Jam” from Karlotta Pink – given for free for this project