My fourth Dirndl is decorated with a combination of Rosmarinrüsche and Herzerlrüsche.
This is a very popular combination of trims in Dirndl, because it just looks good. It looks elaborate, but is actually easy to make. Since I’ve been asked several times how to do this, I made this tutorial and show you how the two trims are made.
Both trims are easy to make, but it just has to “click in the brain”, you just have to see through the principle. I have taken as many pictures as possible, because it is easier with many pictures than with a lot of text. Unfortunately, two pictures didn’t get as sharp.
The ribbon for the trimss can be made by yourself or bought. If the ribbon is made by yourself, the strips must be cut twice as wide as the finished width. It is cut in a straight grain and then simply ironed so that it looks like a bias tape.
Bandwidth: ideally 2-3 cm wide
Lenght of the Ribbon: 4 x finished Lenght
Bandwidth: 1.5 cm, the tape will become a bit narrower through the sewing
Lenght of the Ribbon: 2 x finished Lenght
I had either miscalculated strongly and measured wrong or 2 x the finished length is too much. Anyway, I had some ribbon left over. But it is always better to have more ribbon than too little. You can start attaching when you have almost the required length trim. Because only after attaching you see how much of the trim you need.
The ribbon is folded, the pleat depth is about half the width, deeper is no problem, flatter pleats become ugly. The pleats overlap and can be placed more or less densely depending on preference. If the pleats are very dense, they get the look of rosemary twigs, from which their name also comes. The easiest way is to lay the pleats directly on the sewing machine.
Front, Side, Back after sewing the pleats
The trim is sewn from the backside. The thread isnt visible on the front, no perfect matching thread colour necessary. Start with making a knot on the back in the middle of a pleat edge.
Stab into the Edge, pull, the pleat should fold inside.
Stitch it down, make a knot and repeat on the other Side. Repeat everything till the trim is long enough for your plans.
It might be necessary, depending on the fabric to form the trim a little bit. You can start sewing the trim on both ends of the ribbon.
You can, but you don’t have to mark the distances. The distances are half the bandwidth. With a little practice, the hearts become even all by themselves. The Herzerlrüsche is also sewn from behind.
Stab close to the edge, make a knot. Stab on the other side, pull together, sew with a knot.
Stitch to the front in the middle (distance about half the width) and pull tight again, sew with a knot.
Stab again close to the edge, dont pull, make a knot and repeat from the beginning
Front of the trim, back of the trim
Depending on the fabric you have, you may have to shape the heart a little.
Sewing on the trims
When sewing on (by hand of course) I first sewed on the first row of Herzerlrüsche. But only one side of the wings of the hearts along the neckline. Because the wings on the other side are sewn together with the Rosemarinrüsche, so that the Herzerlrüsche slightly covers the edge of the Rosemarinrüsche. The edge from the Rosmarinrüsche is not so pretty. The other edge of the Rosemarinrüsche, which is then covered by the second row of Herzerlrüsche, is sewn on in a second pass. The second row of Herzerlrüsche is sewn on completely in one pass.