Burda Style Talent 2018: 50s Glamour

(in Deutsch lesen)

Actually I didn’t want to take part in any competition this year, but when my sister told me which topic was being announced at the Burdastyle talent competition, (the 50s) I couldn’t resist.Ballkleid organza8

For this participation I wanted to sew something special, with a lot of glamour: My very first ball gown. For once I didn’t use an original vintage pattern, because I wanted to reach my goal quickly due to the lack of time (and I really wanted to sew the blouse pattern). In a nutshell: I used a modern Burda wedding dress pattern and added the blouse Ronne No. 9 from How To Do Fashion as an additional highlight.

Since it was to be a ball gown, it was clear to me that a different fabric than cotton had to be used. I chose Organza to make the sleeves look nice too. In total the outfit contains 6 m organza, whereby I needed 1.4 meters for the Blouse pattern Ronne. The rest is in the skirt. For the dress itself I used 2.5 meters of matted cotton satin and remains of coincidentally matching wine-red lining.

Sewing with Organza for Beginners

With this dress I used Organza for the first time and of course browsed the internet to see what the sewing bloggers write to sewing with Organza. Except for the statements “the fabric frays very quickly” and “silk organza is sensitive” I found nothing really helpful.

However, especially when sewing the blouse, the organza required forward-looking thinking, as all seams are visible due to the transparency of the fabric. That means, I finished all seams with rolled hem, sewed the side seams with French seams and finished all other open edges with bias tape. It was also really important to use a colour-matched sewing thread.

Because I sewed the organza (only polyester, I only found a good source for silk organza at reasonable prices afterwards) quickly after cutting, the fraying stayed within limits. Of course, the fabric has frayed, which is due to the smoothness of the fabric fibre, but it did not dissolve before my eyes, as the experience reports of others have conveyed to me.

In addition, I also got some ironing strength spray, but did not use it. The only thing that is really annoying: You just can’t get rid of the individual threads of the organza, like spider threads on your face. Unfortunately, the fabric edge stings a little, it also stings through the bias band and lining.

Ballkleid organza1

My first boned bodice

Believe it or not, this is my first strapless dress. I don’t always sew such practical clothes, but it becomes totally impractical for me when there are no straps. That’s why I’ve always sewn dresses with straps and that’s why I haven’t had any reason to use boning yet.

In hindsight, I have to admit that using boning is not as exciting as I had expected. Basically, the sew-on bones are sewn directly on or worked with channels. From my Belle Epoche dress I still had some meters of plastic boning to use them in this bodice. During cutting I added a little more seam allowance (2 cm) in order to have enough material for the channels. I simply sewed them on of squeaky green ribbon. You could also sew the ribbons directly onto the outer fabric, but I didn’t want any visible seams on the outside. 1 cm shorter boning than the finished length of the bodice and thats it. For some reason, I expected more fuss.

Ballkleid Organza6

The first Time “How to do Fashion”

The blouse is after the pattern No 9  Nr 9 Ronne of How to do Fashion. I won this one at the Vintage Pledge 2017. From the beginning it was clear: I had to have Ronne, because I love these wings. And Organza also has exactly the perfect stability to let the wings stand like this.

As I may have mentioned before, I’m not a big fan of printing and gluing pdf patterns. With a lot of whining I glued the pages together and cut them out right away. Unfortunately I took the 36 instead of the 38, because I was afraid that the blouse would get too ” blousy ” otherwise. This makes the blouse tick tight.

The seam allowance is included in the pattern. I have managed with much less material than stated. I got the blouse, the bias binding and the parts for the bodice out of the 1.4 m. The instructions for the pattern are online, but I didn’t need them, with some common sense you can sew the blouse without instructions. Next time I want to lengthen the blouse a bit, if it really needs it I don’t know for sure, but I had the feeling that it would be good to add 2-3 cm to the blouse.

I am positively surprised: The too small size was my mistake. But all markings fit, no part made problems. A Pretty blouse that is easy to sew. My first real indie pattern was a success. Another version in another less synthetic material is planned, wings what more could you want!

Not for the first time I doubled organza with satin, so that no seam allowance would be visible. And also the skirt is not after an fancy pattern There are simply five meters of organza gathered with a black satin skirt underneath. My machine almost wasnt able to handle the fabric thickness and also when I was gathering the fabric, the thread tore several times.

burdastyle Talent 2018

The voting is now closed and it seems that I made it into next round. Thanks to your help. Now it is on the jury to decided whoi s going to munich for the last final live challenge.

Ballkleid Organza4


Conclusion: The organza was less difficult to sew than I had anticipated. In general, I finished the ball gown much faster than expected. But I have deliberately chosen a simpel pattern. The drama is provided by the material and the wings (did I mention that I love them and working on a second version?)

Schnittmuster: Burda Korsagen-Brautkleid mit Blusenshirt 03/2016 #129, Ronne Nr. 9 von How to do Fashion – won at the #Vintagepledge2017

Stoff: Organza ( Polyester), matt black cotton satin, red Venezia lining

Verlinkt zu RUMS, CreateInAustria.

Ballkleid organza5


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