(auf Deutsch lesen)
This outfit is composed of a new favorites and also a bit of a miss. And for once I have already done an extensive practical test of the complete outfit during a weekend. All three pieces have a completely different sewing history and different patterns, so I will write separately about the three pieces.
My new favourite: The Blouse
Tne blouse is definitly one of my new favourites. The reasons are the following:
- The fabric. Some time ago I saw the fabric sewn on Instagram by Betty (@bettysvintagelove) on the Karlotta Pink feed and I was immediately enamored by the fabric. During one of my visits to Karlotta Pink in Einsiedeln I saw the last rest of the fabric and immediately bought everything that was left. What exactly the fabric would become was still unclear at that time.
- The pattern. How the pattern would look like was a little surprise. Because once again it was a new vintage pattern from the magazine “Frau und Mutter” from 10/1951. I do not have the sewing magazine, only the pattern sheet with the illustrations of the models and the corresponding patterns listed. I was attracted by the neckline as well as the tight fit of the blouse.
- The Fit. After the first fitting of the test model I was not happy. But at the second attempt and with the inspiration of a very similar blouse from “By Gum, By Golly“, the blouse also met my wishes in terms of fit.
- The finish. Every now and then (not always) I really feel like hand sewing. It’s just relaxing. You sew one stitch at a time. That’s why the complete inside of the blouse as well as all seams are sewn by hand. You can only see the seams on the neckline and sleeves, but that doesn’t matter.
- The blouse is comfortable and super light, although it is not made of jersey or any other stretch fabric. That was an absolute enlightenment and caused me to dispose of half-finished jersey experiments. I also gave my hoarded striped jerseys to my sister.
I will sew this pattern more often for sure, because it is super simple and pretty. I was thinking that I could vary the neckline. For example, instead of the wedge a keyhole or something. And for the rest of the harlequin fabric I will also find a suitable material-saving pattern.
Secret Pyjama: The Marlene Tousers
The Marlene pants clearly belong in the category of secret pyjamas. Chic as well as super cozy and it even survices an evening on the sofa wrinkle-free. I can only say: Never again will I wear skinny jeans, no matter how much stretch they have.
- Fabric. The fabric is a wine-red crepe with stretch by buttinette (no longer available). That’s why the trousers should also be ideal for the summer. Nice drape, a certain weight, but also firm enough that not everything can be seen.
- Pattern. The pattern is self-contructed, however, the drafting of the pattern is already some time ago and I have clearly not become less around the waist. With the flattening of the rear seam and less deep darts, however, it was possible to get a handle on this.
- Sewing Time. My new Marlene pants were sewn within a month and it didn’t take a year to finally finish like my first (not shown yet). At the moment no further trousers are planned, but she will certainly not remain alone.
And this time the Marlene pants are suitable for flat shoes. As awesome as I find shoes with heels, in reality I prefer to wear flat shoes. That’s why I’m busy at expanding my range of flat shoes: with fabric sneakers in different colours to match my clothes.
The Flop?! The Jacke
Pretty, but somehow only okay.
- Fabric. I love the fabric, the colour, everything.
- Pattern. I was in love with the faux fur Leo Version by „by Gum, by Golly“ and thought this would be the jacket pattern to wear with my skirts. The pattern Simplicity 1319 is sewn fast and simpel. And I still really like the scarf collar.
And these were my difficulties:
- The measurement chart. The patterns after the Big 4 are infamous for being much too big. There are indications with the dimensions of the finished garment, but if it only is the back length it does not help much. It is sometimes recommended to take the circumference over the bust instead of the bust and then do an FBA if necessary. Then why is there a size chart? At any rate, instead of the 14 required according to the measurement chart, I took the 6, the smallest size. (14 cm less around the waist!!)
- The seam allowance. I am used to using patterns without seam allowance. I assumed that the seam allowance contained in the pattern “works”. Unfortunately the lining has pulled at the sleeves and I had to insert a lining strip (once the cuff widths). The lining was also too short at the hem.
- The sleeves. I only find the sleeve length solala (angle the arms and insert them then you get the look of the illustration) and the width of the original cuffs is really, really small. Therefore I doubled the cuffs – from the original 4 to 8 cm. Also there is the danger if you follow the original pattern that the lining will flash.
- The length of the jacket. To give me enough leeway to find the perfect length, I cut the longer version and in the end I only turned in about 1.5 cm. So if you really want to sew a long version, you have to add some more length.
After a weekend of intensive wearing, I find the jacket quite okay. A new favorite, as hoped, probably not. The pattern has already moved on to my mama’s pattern collection.
Conclusion: I prefer to stay with Burda and my beloved vintage patterns. I know what awaits me and, with the exception of one catastrophe, everything has worked out well so far. It is highly recommended to sew patterns that have a photo of the model instead of an illustration, even if the pattern is still slightly adapted to the model. The sewn garment clearly corresponds more to reality than an illustration, in which the artist will always exaggerate and stylize.
Schnittmuster: Top: „Frau und Mutter“, 10/1951; Pants: selfdrafted, Jacket: Simplicity 1319