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The pattern of the month March for the sewing challenge #SewMyStyle was the Kalle Shirt and Dress pattern by Closet Case Patterns. After I did not reach the goal in January (in my opinion too immature pattern) and February (too short a timeframe for the required changes to the pattern), it was very important for me to at least complete the March project successfully. I started over punctually at a sewing retreat in January. At the end, only the buttonholes and buttons were missing. But lets start at the beginning.
Each sewing project begins with the size selection. This first step (along with the choice of fabric) can send the project on the right path – or throw it off course. After my first look at the final dimensions (and the shirt has a lot of room around the bust area), I immediately considered whether I should choose the smallest size. In fact, however, this room arises due to the box pleat in the back. The choice according to the measurement table – in particular the bust size – is absolutely correct. At the top, it is a good fit, very loose below the bust. Upgrading for the hip can be confidently saved.
There were many firsts for me in this sewing project:
- The first button placket: The reinforcement with Vlieseline is existential. By the way, Vlieseline can be torn, but unfortunately it did not completely tore parallel.
- The first double back yoke with the burrito method: The method works perfectly. For the shoulder seam, the next time I would put the first seam a little further to the edge, because this makes the second seam ALWAYS the outermost (i.e., no seam “outside” visible). Also important was to pin the shirt as a buritton roll as far away from the seam as possible.
- The first collar: The instructions helped me a lot. If I’d ironed a bit neater, the undercollar would not peek out at one point – but it’s really minimal. I’ve basted the band collar – that might not have been necessary.
- Buttonholes: For these I went home. The many sample holes (commissioned by my mom) were very helpful to get the necessary feeling for the fabric and the necessary markings. The only botched hole was created on the collar piece. Unfortunately, I cut a bit of thread at the edge of the buttonhole during cutting and I had to secure it with some hand stitches. Opening wasn’t even necessary: The button, as well as the buttonhole are just adornment. It really destroyed my mood for the whole day.
The changes I have made
- I have shortened the length of the back by 10 cm, so that the shirt at the front and back is the same length. Due to our physique and the natural posture, the front is still shorter.
- I would have liked to add the breast pocket. But I have to create a usable template first – to get perfect symmetry. But my botched buttonhole took the wind out of my sails, next time maybe …
The fabric just screamed for a summer shirt, an pink linen fabric in my stash may become a long-sleeved version ?! We will see….
Conclusion: I am very satisfied. I like to wear oversized shirts – like a flannel shirt whose shoulders have become too tight for my boyfriend.
Pattern: Kalle Shirt and Shirtdress by Closet Case Pattern – in tunic length with continuous button placket
Fabric: Light blue linen fabric from my fabric stash